Chianti - The Popular Italian
Written by JoAnn Actis-Grande
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Photography by Thomas M Perkins/www.shutterstock.com

 

 

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Photography by Gianluca Figliola Fantini/www.shutterstock.com

 

Curvy roads, breathtaking hillside vineyards, olive groves, cypress trees, medieval castles, restored farm houses, and historic villages all complement the breathtaking terroir that produces Chianti, the quintessential Italian red wine that pairs perfectly with pasta, pizza, and other Italian favorites.

From grapes grown in the heart of Tuscany, Chianti is a voluminous and widely sold wine. It is made in eight district zones of neighboring areas that cover a vast territory around the original center of Chianti Classico production. Not only has packaging changed from straw-covered flasks to modern, state-of-the-art bottles, but there have also been other changes since the early 1980s. These include innovative vintners using new wine-making techniques and recent upgrades in quality assurance with DOCs (controlled designation of origin) and DOCGs (controlled designation of origin guaranteed). DOCG wines are government tasted and analyzed, and bottles have numbered government seals on the cap or cork. Produced from Sangiovese grapes, the most popular grape varietal in Tuscany, Chianti has various styles and tastes partly due to the many diverse micro climates of long hot days and cool nights, typical effects of a Mediterranean climate. Some Chiantis are smooth and round, easy to drink young; others need years to develop the aromas and flavors distinctive of aged Tuscan reds. The wines show a deep ruby-garnet color and present a light to medium body with cherry and cranberry as leading flavors, but you can find cocoa, espresso, tobacco, and oak in older vintages. These characteristics can confuse Chianti wine drinkers. Below I make some recommendations detailing varieties and distinctive traits.

Now that harvest season has arrived, it is a great time to discover and enjoy the lovely tastes of Chianti and Chianti Classico. Look for vintages three to five years old. For more intense flavors or cellaring, try wines five to 15 years old. Salute!

These wines are easy to find in retail stores around New Hampshire, including the New Hampshire State Liquor Commission (NHSLC) wine outlets. Prices range from $9.99 to $30. 

2009 Biagio Chianti
Produced near the landmark Leaning Tower of Pisa, this is simple, light-bodied Chianti with lots of cherry and cranberry fruit flavors. Serve with pizza, spaghetti marinara, eggplant and chicken parmigiana, or on its own.

2007 DaVinci Chianti
A popular wine found on many restaurant wine lists. This is delightful medium-bodied Chianti with flavors of cherry and an array of red fruits that continue throughout the glass, finishing with a bit of pepper. Enjoy with appetizers, fruit salads, pasta, and meat dishes.

2007 Poggio Amorelli Chianti Classico
A modern style wine showing deep ruby color with aromas of violets and vanilla. A full-bodied wine with flavors of black cherry and raspberries, embracing a pleasing balance between softness, acidity, and tannins. Perfect with grilled meats.

2007 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva
From a boutique winery rich in history with vineyards producing some of the finest wine in Tuscany, this is a very fruit forward wine with lots of cherry and dark berry, as well as touches of oak and spice. A good choice for fish and meat stews.

2007 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia
Harvested by hand from a single vineyard. Brilliant, rich, ruby red color with floral notes and traces of wild berry lead to some spicy tastes together with cocoa and dusty oak. A dense wine with soft, youthful tannins and excellent overall character. Aging seven to 10 years is suggested.

2007 Banfi Vintners Chianti Classico Riserva
From one of the oldest family producers in Italy and fast becoming a worldwide powerhouse. This is a perfectly balanced wine showing a deep ruby in color with a rich bouquet of cherries and plums, leading to flavors of dark cherry and leather and a lingering finish. Works well with a wide variety of foods, including pasta, grilled meats, roasts, and aged cheeses.

2008 Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico
A classic wine made in an old world style with deep purple color, aromas of roses, and flavors of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, and oak. Very crisp, balanced, and structured.  Highly recommended for wine aficionados. The winery and the bridge in New York City are named after explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano. A good choice for antipasto, chicken, and steak.

2008 Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva
From grapevines found at Castello di Nipozzano, this wine shows a deep rose red color with aromas and flavors of ripe cherry, raspberry, plum, chocolate, and coffee with a touch of spice. This delicate, smooth, lively wine is well balanced and holds an endless finish. Serve with barbecued meat and beef.

   

 
A Booksmart Review: This Life Is in Your Hands: One Dream, Sixty Acres, and a Family Undone by Melissa Coleman
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This Life Is in Your Hands: One Dream, Sixty Acres, and a Family Undone
Melissa Coleman (Harper Collins 2011)

Melissa Coleman’s new book, This Life Is in Your Hands: One Dream, Sixty Acres, and a Family Undone, explores growing up on a rural Maine homestead in a dysfunctional family. It is also the story of how Melissa’s father, Elliot Coleman—visionary, outsized personality, and organic gardening pioneer—got his start.

The story begins in the late 1960s when Melissa’s parents, both from privileged, suburban backgrounds, join the nascent “back to the land” movement and set out to carve a farm out of 60 acres of coastal Maine. With little money and superhuman effort, they build a house and start a successful small farm. At first, living with no plumbing, telephone, electricity, or access to powered farm equipment provides true happiness for the young couple.

When Melissa is born and then her sister, life becomes more complicated. While Elliot is a dynamo of work and drive, Melissa’s mother, Sue, struggles with depression. As the years go by, Elliot’s success and celebrity slowly erase the family’s idyll, and the farm becomes a magnet for a tribe of young want-to-be farmers. Elliot becomes enslaved by his obsession with self-sufficiency and by financial pressures enveloping him.

The realization of Elliot’s dream, in the end, becomes a nightmare. It ruins his health, aggravates his wife’s depression, and renders her incapable of caring for her children. It is this dynamic, which precipitates the tragedy that tears the family apart.

In the final pages, we learn the central truth of this book: it is important not to forget bad times in our lives but to find a measure of peace by forgiving the unforgivable. Melissa Coleman lives in Freeport, Maine, with her husband and twin daughters.

Reviewed by Kerry Michaels


 
Cathy Sununu and the Portsmouth Museum of Art
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Portrait of Cathy Sununu by Karrah Kwasnik.

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Edwin Ushiro, Late for Reconciliation

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Andreas von Chrzanowski a.k.a. Case, By the One I Love (from the Daily Routine Series)

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Herakut, Mural at 150 State Street, Portsmouth (photo credit Philip Case Cohen)

Cathy Sununu is a woman on a mission. As director of the burgeoning Portsmouth Museum of Art (PMA) in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, Sununu begins each day with one goal in mind: to develop the museum into a valued community resource with a global reach. Yet as the kerfuffle over the museum’s recent exhibition Street a.k.a. Museum demonstrates, the mission is not without its challenges. While many applaud the museum’s efforts to expose the community to new art forms, some assert that the artwork that blossomed on the exteriors of buildings around town disrupts the quaint charm of their seaside community.

In Sununu’s eyes, the debate merely underscores the fact that the museum—temporarily housed in a mixed-use waterfront building with premium office space and penthouse condominiums in downtown Portsmouth—is doing its job. “Art is subjective,” she observes. “With every show we do, we hope that people will come in and see things that they like and dislike. We’re trying to push the boundaries a bit and prompt people to question preconceived notions. Our goal is to make people think.”

A slightly built dynamo with a sense of adventure and a penchant for great shoes, Sununu has dedicated untold hours to the museum over the course of her 17-month tenure as director, all of them unpaid. A New Hampshire native and member of a well-known political family, she is no stranger to public service or the arts. Her father, John H. Sununu, is a former three-term state governor, and her brother, John E. Sununu, is the former United States Senator from New Hampshire. Sununu, together with her parents John and Nancy, is a generous supporter of the New Hampshire Furniture Masters, and over the course of the past 20 years, she has served in a variety of arts organizations and boards, including a three-year stint as head of Manchester’s now-defunct arts council.

After taking a hiatus from the arts a few years ago, Sununu moved to the Seacoast and decided that she wanted to plug back in. “I joined the Prescott Park board of directors and then heard about the new contemporary art museum,” Sununu says. “I love small businesses and start-ups, so the organization immediately caught my eye.” Sununu believed that the time was right to establish this type of institution in Portsmouth, and she wanted to be a part of it. “We had lots of visual arts on the Seacoast, but there wasn’t any anchor,” she notes. When the museum’s original director departed suddenly, the nascent organization was left with all volunteers and a leadership void. “I really believed in the museum’s mission, and we needed someone to pick up the baton. I realized that if you want something done, you sometimes have to do it yourself,” Sununu says.

Sununu has never looked back. Today, she is more enthusiastic than ever about the museum’s prospects, and she’s taking multitasking to new heights to ensure that she and her board realize their goals. Sununu is a tireless promoter of the institution. Her duties encompass everything from strategic planning to fundraising and curatorial tasks, together with a healthy dose of marketing and public relations work. A quick review of the museum’s press over the past year demonstrates that the efforts of Sununu, her volunteers, and her board are bearing fruit. “We’ve tried to create a concept for the institution that’s sustainable in this area at a reasonable cost,” Sununu asserts.  It seems to be working. In her estimation, community reception for every art show they have mounted has been overwhelmingly positive, though not without controversy.

“Our aim is to broaden people’s perspectives and cultivate a local audience that’s more adventuresome in their artistic tastes,” Sununu notes. This is a win-win for the community, she explains, because visitors not only support the museum, but also the city’s creative economy, since after their museum visits, they often go on to explore downtown boutiques, galleries, restaurants, and the like. The museum’s exhibitions also benefit local artists, who—invigorated by the works they encounter during the museum’s rotating exhibitions—are more likely to stretch in their own creative endeavors.

When the museum first opened its doors, Sununu and other board members ventured into the community, polling gallery owners and directors of other arts organizations as to what was working and what was not in the local arts scene. For starters, several wonderful museums already existed within driving distance of Portsmouth, including Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts, Maine’s Portland Museum of Art, and Manchester’s Currier Museum of Art.  “We knew that we needed to carve out a particular niche for ourselves, and we realized that no one was showing twenty-first-century emerging art from around the world,” she observes. “Local people we spoke to showed an interest in a more diverse arts scene, so we felt like we’d found our calling,” Sununu says. “Part of what we can do as a museum is to serve as a portal for connecting local and regional artists as well as the public to the international arts scene,” she says. “We want to be both educational and evocative.”

The museum’s birth as a grassroots entity has been both a blessing and a curse in realizing this goal. Because the Portsmouth Museum of Art was not launched on the back of a large bequest of artwork or an endowment, the staff has had to struggle for every dollar since the day it opened its doors. Yet this hardscrabble start has also afforded Sununu and her staff tremendous freedom in formulating the exhibitions they mount. “We’re trying to be about the present and the future rather than the past,” says Sununu, who operates the museum on the kunsthalle model, a German concept in which a facility mounts a series of temporary exhibitions.

Driven by a desire to focus on new, often unproven artists, and unburdened by the constraints of a permanent collection, the museum has chalked up a series of provocative exhibits.  Its first show, Sacred and Profane, explored concepts of the sacrilegious and the sacrosanct. iImage dove into a twenty-first-century re-examination of the portrait tradition. Street a.k.a. Museum, the museum’s most recent exhibit, tossed off the confines of the museum’s physical structure and launched an exploration into the evolution of street art by placing the art in the streets of downtown Portsmouth.

Sununu and her staff show no signs of letting up. The next exhibition, Tibetan Contemporaries, explores the ways in which contemporary Tibetan artists interpret the multitude of overlapping cultures in their lives. Each artist featured follows a personal path to creating art that focuses on Tibetan religious, visual, and cultural themes. The exhibition’s multi-cultural, multi-faceted artwork also serves as a snapshot of the contemporary Tibetan artists community, in which members interact through the Internet, artist associations, galleries, groups, and exhibitions all over the world. Finally, the exhibition includes artwork from artists of other nationalities, who use Tibetan artistic traditions to tell stories about cross-cultural interaction and globalization.

“The Seacoast has changed a lot in the past 20 years,” Sununu observes. “A lot of new companies have moved in, bringing people from more urban environments who have traveled extensively and been involved in more contemporary art scenes. They are looking to continue those experiences here, and the Portsmouth Museum of Art wants to be part of their cultural orbit.” When the museum first opened, there was skepticism that such a concept could work in Portsmouth. Through creativity and hard work, she and her staff demonstrated that an audience for their offerings exists.  “I’m convinced that there are people in this area who believe in cultivating the next generation of artists,” Sununu concludes. “We just have to hope that we can find them and they can find us!”


 
A Booksmart Review: The Eat Local Cookbook by Lisa Turner
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The Eat Local Cookbook
Lisa Turner (Down East, 2011)

For family cooks, inundated with fresh produce from their community-supported agriculture (CSA) share, their own gardens, or a trip to a weekend farmer’s market, comes a delightful new cookbook by Lisa Turner of Laughing Stock Farm in Freeport, Maine. Turner, who supplies fresh organic produce to many Maine restaurants, helpfully divides her book by seasons. More than 100 recipes give plenty of ways to use all kinds of Down East specialties from kale to beets to blueberries.

While the cookbook does not provide any photos, recipe names such as crab cakes on pea shoots or roasted squash and kale salad with maple-garlic dressing are usually enough to inspire. In addition to her own culinary inventions, Turner includes those of many notable Maine chefs, plus members of her CSA. Traditional recipes such as apple pie are here, but so also are more unusual ones, like radish sandwiches, beet-green and potato pancakes, and quesadillas with rutabaga.

In addition to recipes, Turner offers a few helpful gardening basics and an extremely useful “Tips for Vegetable Storage” section at the end. Many of the recipes feature words of wisdom for the home gardener, such as letting root crops experience a few frosts so that some of their starches turn to sugar.

Instructions are typically straightforward, though they vary in detail: one recipe provides an entire paragraph on preparing a perfectly cooked hard-boiled egg, but another gives no information on how to caramelize onions. Regardless, the recipes typically contain fewer than 10 ingredients and are written in an easy-to-follow manner.

Reviewed by Allison Knab


 
Apples
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The New Englander’s favorite fall and winter fruit

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Photographed by Jim Stott

 

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The apple crop is the quintessential New England harvest. Although not native to North America, the apple represents all we hold dear about life in the United States. “As American as apple pie” says it all.

Food historian Constance J. Cooper says settlers carried seeds from Europe to North America. In 1625, William Blaxton, an Anglican priest, planted New England’s first apple orchard on land that became Boston’s Beacon Hill. Cold winters, cool summer nights, and rocky farmland did not inhibit the yield of beautiful, crisp, juicy apples.

In home cooking, apples are a mainstay. Baked whole and served alongside roast pork, added to poultry stuffing, or served raw and sliced with salads, they show up in every course of a meal. We add them to chicken salad, serve them with cheeses, and cook them with raisins, pears, herbs, and spices for chutneys.

But our favorite apple recipe remains apple pie. Nothing compares with an afternoon spent apple picking and bringing home fresh apples to make a pie. We include our favorite pie recipe and also give you a simple free-form tart variation to make with less fuss. Warm from the oven, served with vanilla ice cream or Jimmy’s favorite—a thick slice of aged cheddar—it is a classic dessert perfect for fall or for any time of year.

A word of caution. Every apple has a different amount of sweetness and of natural pectin. Pectin releases as apples cook, letting them bind slightly together and making for a beautifully thick pie filling. Generally, the riper an apple, the more pectin it contains and the less thickening agent you will need. Use your favorite kind of apple, and to thicken the filling, put in a tablespoon of flour, a bit of cornstarch, or, for very ripe apples, no thickener at all. It is best to blend tart and sweet apples. Sweeter apples include Golden Delicious, Braeburn, and Jonagold. Tarter ones are Granny Smith, Empire, and Cortland. Experiment to find your favorite combination.

We also give you an easy recipe for apple and butternut squash soup, combining two of our favorite ingredients and as nutritious as it is delicious. This recipe makes an elegant hearty soup that you can top with fried sage leaves or sautéed apples. It freezes well and, served with a salad and fresh bread, makes a perfect Sunday night autumn meal.

Classic Apple Pie

Preheat oven to 425°F

For the crust:
2 ½ cups unbleached flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 ½ sticks cold unsalted butter, cubed
½ cup vegetable shortening or lard
½ cup ice water

1. Blend flour, salt, and sugar in a food processer until combined.

2. Add the butter and shortening or lard and pulse until mixture begins to blend and resembles the size of small peas.

3. Add the water, one tablespoon at a time until the dough is slightly tacky and sticks together.

4. Divide the dough in two and cover each ball with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least two hours. Roll into two disks large enough for a 9-inch pie plate leaving about 1 ½ inches overhang.

For the filling:

3 pounds (6–8) firm apples, peeled, cored, and sliced
¼ cup light brown sugar
3 tablelspoons butter
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg
1 tablespoon all purpose flour or cornstarch

1. Blend all together and fill the pie shell with apple mixture.

2. Dot with tiny pieces of butter. Top with second crust and crimp the edges to seal. Bake at 400°F for 50–60 minutes.

For a free-form tart:

1. Roll the dough into a large (16-inch) circle and place dough on an ungreased cookie sheet.

2. Place the apples on top of the dough and spread to 2 inches from the edge.

3. Fold up the edges all the way around and pinch the dough to seal, leaving the middle open. Bake at 400°F for 20–25 minutes.

Apple and Butternut Squash Soup

About 2 quarts

4 cups roasted butternut squash (See roasting instructions below.)
2 tablespoons butter
1 onion, diced
2 apples, peeled, sliced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 quart chicken stock
¼ cup finely chopped thyme
¼ cup finely chopped sage leaves
1 teaspoon nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the squash:

1. Cut the butternut squash lengthwise, then in half to make 4 sections, scoop out the seeds with a spoon.

2. Wrap loosely in foil, place on a baking pan, and roast in oven pre-heated at 375°F for 1 hour, or until squash is tender. When cool, scoop out, discard skin, and reserve.

For the soup:

1. Melt butter in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat.

2. Add the onions and apples; sauté until the onions turn translucent, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add the stock, herbs, and reserved butternut squash; bring to a simmer and turn the heat to low.

4. Simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Water may be added at any point if a thinner texture is desired. Add salt and pepper to taste. If you would like a smoother soup, blend with a stick blender or move mixture to a food processor and blend to desired consistency.


 
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