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A simple cure for a snowbound weekend

Written by Jim Stott and Jonathan King   
Photographed by Jim Stott

Roasted VegetablesMany of our most treasured recipes for slow cooked foods are old New England favorites. Jim and I thoroughly enjoy the slow cooking process almost as much as the finished product. And it is no wonder: is there anything better than cooking during a blustery, windy, damp or snowy winter weekend?

We are positive that early Americans knew exactly what they were doing. With no freezers, microwaves or convection ovens, slow roasting, braising and stewing foods for hours were the only options they had to prepare food, and these methods served them well. Slow cooking tenderizes meats, brings out the sweetness of vegetables and fills a home with fantastic aromas.

As cooks who love preparing foods simply to bring out the natural goodness of each ingredient, we often find ourselves relying on slow cooking as a way to relax and fill an afternoon with an activity we both enjoy.

We have spent many a winter weekend planning and orchestrating one of our favorite slow meals: fall-off-the-bone roasted short ribs, sheet pans full of root vegetables and a big bubbling apple crisp. Each recipe is fairly easy to make, and when served with a loaf of crusty peasant-style bread and a terrific red wine, you will soon forget that it is cold outside.

We keep a large supply of “roastable” veggies in the house—potatoes, turnips, Brussels sprouts, beets, carrots and onions are always good and generally keep well for weeks. We buy our food from local vendors as often as possible, and with the increase in winter farmers’ markets, it is easier than ever to keep your pantry stocked with fresh food.

For short ribs, Jim loves to visit Wolf’s Neck Farm in Freeport, Maine, which raises organic beef on land that has been farmed by the Smith family for decades. For pies and crisps, nothing beats apples from Abby Orchards in Alfred, Maine. They grow loads of varieties and the picking is always fun. We often buy vegetables from Golden Harvest in Kittery, Maine.

As we hunker down to winter in New England, one thing is sure: we can count on at least a few bad weather forecasts and a great excuse to make our favorite slow meal. We encourage you to do the same.

Osso BuccoOsso Bucco
Serves 4–6

Ingredients:
1 cup flour
4 lbs. veal shanks, cut into 2–3 inch-long pieces
2 Tbs. vegetable oil
1 Tbs. olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
2 celery ribs, chopped
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
1 Tbs. fresh rosemary
2 cups dry red wine
1 ½ cups homemade chicken or beef broth
1 28 oz. can of whole, peeled Italian tomatoes
¼ cup fresh parsley
1 bay leaf
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Place the flour on a plate and add salt and pepper to taste. Dredge the veal thoroughly and shake off the excess flour.
2. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F.
3. In a large casserole with a cover or a covered ovenproof dish, heat 1 Tbs. of the vegetable oil and when it is hot, brown the veal on one side until it is golden brown. Work in batches until all the shanks are browned, using oil as needed. Transfer all the shanks to a plate and set aside.
4. Place the same pot over low heat and add the olive oil, vegetables and herbs. Cook, stirring frequently, for about eight minutes.
5. Raise the heat to high, add the wine and bring it to a boil. Let the mixture simmer for about two minutes. Add the broth and tomatoes, crushing the tomatoes as you place them in the pan. Reduce the heat and simmer for another minute. Add the bay leaf, the veal shanks, salt and pepper, and simmer for five minutes.
6. Cover the pot and roast in the oven for 2 ½ hours, basting the meat every half hour or so.
7. Serve hot with pasta or whipped potatoes.

Roasted Vegetables
Serves 6–8 as a side dish

Ingredients:
(Select your favorite vegetables from the market.)
1 ½ pounds baby potatoes, scrubbed    
2 small heads fennel, ends trimmed, fronds and green stalks trimmed, and bulb cut into quarters
1 lb. carrots (about 5 medium) peeled, ends trimmed, and cut into 1 ½-inch pieces
1 lb. parsnips, peeled, ends trimmed, and cut into 1 ½-inch pieces
3 to 4 small leeks, cut in half lengthwise and then into
1 ½-inch pieces
1 large red pepper, cored and cut into ½-inch thick strips
½ lb. Brussels sprouts, ends trimmed and left whole
¼ cup, plus 2 Tbs. olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme leaves,
or 2 tsp. dried thyme

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2. Place the potatoes at one end of a large sheet pan, cookie sheet with sides or a large shallow roasting pan.
3. Arrange the fennel next, cut side up, the carrots, parsnips, leeks, red pepper and Brussels sprouts, creating rows of vegetables. Sprinkle all the vegetables with the olive oil, salt, pepper and thyme. You can prepare all the vegetables several hours ahead of time; cover and refrigerate until ready to roast.
4. Place on the middle shelf and roast for 30 minutes.
5. Reduce the temperature to 350°F and carefully flip the vegetables over. Roast another 30 minutes, or until everything is tender (when tested with a small, sharp knife) and golden brown.

Apple CrispApple Crisp
Makes one 9 X 13 inch pan

Ingredients:
12 medium Granny Smith and Macintosh apples (6 of each); peeled, cored and sliced
1 tsp. vanilla
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 cups rolled oats
1 ½ tsp. ground cinnamon
¾ tsp. ground nutmeg
1 ½ cups packed dark brown sugar
1 ½ cups butter, softened

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
2. Place apples in a mixing bowl, sprinkle evenly with vanilla. Toss to combine.
3. In a large bowl, combine the flour, oatmeal, cinnamon, nutmeg and brown sugar. Cut butter into mixture until crumbly.
4. Evenly place coated apple slices into the bottom of a greased 9 X 13 inch baking dish.
5. Cover apple slices with crumb mixture.
6. Bake at 350°F for 45 to 50 minutes or until apples are tender.
 
Pizza
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No Wonder It Is Everyone’s Favorite

Written by Jim Stott and Jonathan King   
Photographed by Jim Stott

Finished Grilled PizzaPizza, a basic bread crust topped with tomatoes, cheese and a couple of herbs, has probably had more written about it than any other food in history. Entire books are devoted to the worldwide and regional history of everyone’s favorite food, and there are more cookbooks about the “tomato pie” than we can count. Deep dish or thin crust, simple cheese or “loaded,” everyone has a favorite pizza, and everyone has a story about where they had the best pizza they ever tasted.

As you might expect, we have our favorites, although it’s really hard to narrow it down to one or two. If pushed, we’d have to say a simple Margherita pizza is at the top of the list, along with a perfectly grilled pizza topped with caramelized onions, artichokes, several kinds of cheese and a sprinkling of roasted red peppers.

We confess we didn’t know the significance of one of our favorites, the classic Margherita pizza, until we researched its origin. Turns out that in the late 1800s, the royal palace in Rome ordered a local baker to create a pizza to honor the visiting Queen Margherita. He fashioned one with the colors of the Italian flag, using deep red tomato sauce, pure white mozzarella and fresh green basil, and she loved it. It was so simple and yet elegant enough for a queen.

We still remember the flavor and texture of a Margherita pizza we had in the Piazza del Campo in Siena, Italy. It had a thin crust with fresh tomatoes, thick slices of mozzarella and fresh basil, which we topped with freshly ground pepperoncini and grated Parmigiano–Reggiano. Perhaps it could have been the fact that we were sitting in the sunshine in Siena with a glass of local Chianti, but we really do believe it was the best pizza we’ve ever had.

In our research of pizza, we also discovered that the soldiers of Darius the Great, king of ancient Persia who died in 486 BC, often marched in lengthy battles and reportedly baked a flat bread covered with cheese and dates on their battle shields over an open fire, a meal that would keep them fortified for long stretches of time.

That brings us to the nutritional value of pizza. While most of us think of it as a fast food and perhaps even a bit of an indulgence, it really is a healthful option for lunch or dinner. Keeping an eye on the amount and the kind of cheese you use is important, but overall there aren’t many meals that are as healthful and convenient. Tomato sauce is extremely nutritious, and veggies will add fiber and vitamins to your daily meal plan. Pile on the onions—rich in chromium, vitamin C and fiber—and pizza will help lower your blood sugar, cholesterol and blood pressure. Black olives help ward off heart disease and lower cholesterol and sweet red peppers are full of Vitamins C, A and B6. So relax, enjoy and include pizza in your diet.

Attached are two recipes for pizza we hope you will try. One is for a grilled pizza which sounds challenging but is easy to make and a sure crowd pleaser. Mangia!

Grilled Pizza Step 1Grilled Pizza
You may want to practice this recipe a time or two before serving it to guests. Once you get the hang of it, it is a wonderfully flavorful way to cook pizza. This recipe will work on either a charcoal or a gas grill. The grill must be large enough to allow for half the grill to be hot and the other half cool. Use your imagination with toppings and create your own version. (One helpful hint: have all toppings handy in bowls near the grill. You will want to move quickly when the crust begins to brown).

Ingredients:
Pre-made pizza dough
2 Tbs. olive oil
Toppings of your choice

Grilled Pizza Step 21. Prepare your favorite pizza dough recipe. Roll it on a flour or cornmeal surface to a desired shape and let it rest a few minutes before placing it on a cooking sheet that has been lightly coated with olive oil.
2. Preheat one side of a gas grill to about 400°F, making sure the grate is clean. Check to see that charcoal coals are hot if you are using a charcoal grill. When the grill or charcoal is ready, flip the dough onto the grill, oil side down using tongs or a large spatula. Allow the dough to cook for about a minute or two; you want the underside of the dough to be slightly charred and crisp.
3. Move the dough to a cooler spot on the grill and leave it for just a minute. Quickly flip the dough and spread about one half of the toppings over the dough. Move it back to the hot side. Cover and let the pizza cook for about two to three minutes. Move the pizza again to the cool side, add the remaining toppings, cover, and let the pizza cook until the cheese is bubbling.
4. Remove to a cutting board and enjoy.


Grilled Pizza Step 3Tomato, Basil and Niçoise Olive Pizza
Makes two 12-inch pizzas

Ingredients:
1 batch of your favorite pizza dough
4 tsp. olive oil
6 tbs. fresh basil, julienned
3/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
6 medium tomatoes, sliced thinly
1 cup Niçoise or black olives, chopped
1 1/2 lb. fresh mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced

1. Preheat oven to 425°F.
2. Roll out the dough and brush lightly with oil.
3. Scatter two tablespoons of the basil and one third of the cheese on top of the dough. Arrange tomatoes in a circle, slightly overlapping each one. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and the rest of the basil. Scatter the olives over the tomatoes and place the mozzarella in random fashion over the tomatoes. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and drizzle the remaining olive oil on top.
4. Bake for about 15 minutes or until the cheese is brown
and bubbling.

 

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